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Farmer
Resources : Table Talk Outcomes II
TABLE TALK II - MORE ABOUT MEAT
February 1, 2005
Mas Restaurant
Attendees: Galen Zamarra, Peter Hoffman, Nina Planck,
Caroline Fidanza, Marc Meyer, Liza Queen, Dona Abramson, Julie
Fasias, Bill Brasile, Kristyn LaPlant, Katherine Dyer, Ed Witt,
Melanie Acostavalle, Mike Yezzi, Jen Small, Alan & Nancy
Brown, Glen Rowse, Jill Gies, Gerry Bornt, Judith Kleinberg
WHAT WE LEARNED: Both chefs and producers remain committed
to adjusting their practices and expectations to the extent
possible in order to promote use of local, sustainable products.
Peter: "I am really impressed with the commitment on the
part of the chefs to keep trying to make it work and fiddle
with the mix to move towards the better choices and still hold
onto financial viability." Katherine: "I have never
been involved in such a frank discussion between chefs and farmers
addressing issues surrounding quality, distribution and price.
. . everyone seemed willing to make genuine compromises for
the greater good."
BEEF:
FCX has been able to offer occasional fresh beef since the September
meeting. This has been positive. Points for improvement remain:
- Ability to offer fresh beef consistently for at least a
several week period rather than once a month or so.
- Ability to offer more than braising cuts
- Services for chefs, due to space or manpower, who cannot
butcher on site
- Amounts of desired cuts remain very limited
- Lower priced ground beef would have a large market ($2.00/lb)
Discussion covered:
Consistent offerings/greater selection/butchering:
Should FCX work with a butcher, for example, Fleischer's Meats,
to cut and distribute our meat? Fleischer works with local producers,
buys their products and butchers/distributes. This would give
chefs ability to choose from larger selection of products. FCX
producers would lose "face" of their product, with
less return. Alternatively, is there a local NYC butcher who
would cut FCX meat to chef's needs? Is this a possible NYC based
business if enough volume? Could FCX "store" frozen
products, perhaps at Harlem Community Kitchen, for distribution
on as needed basis? Followup: FCX advisory group will invite
Josh Stein from Fleischers to discuss possible options. FCX
will discuss storage options with Harlem Community Kitchen.
FCX producers could work closely together and recruit additional
grazed beef producers to provide weekly meet cuts, if there
was greater assurance that a significant portion of the animal
would be sold in this way. It's not feasible to send a cow each
week with only speculative idea of how much will be sold. A
"cooperative buying" model would be of interest where
several chefs would each buy a portion of the animal. FCX could
coordinate the overall sale, so each chef would only be responsible
for his/her own order portion. Venues such as Harlem Community
Kitchen may be able to purchase cuts not favored by chefs. Would
"grain finished" beef be of greater interest? What
are ways to get overall value from entire animal while keeping
low cost cuts affordable? Followup: FCX will pursue this option,
and will work on a "reverse order" wish list for chefs.
Rather than producers developing the initial product offering
from an entire beef, chefs will be asked to complete a wish
list order form. FCX will compile wish list to coodinate sale
of entire animal.
FRESH LAMB, PORK AND VEAL ARE IN DEMAND:
FCX will continue to recruit additional producers to offer a
consistent supply, in season, of these fresh meats.
POULTRY:
Chicken: June - October is the typical season for fresh chicken.
While chickens could be raised inside for the winter, processing
becomes a difficult issue on the farm. Chefs ideally need a
year round supply - other suppliers not happy to be only "winter"
source. Chickens packed in bulk, head and feet attached, whether
or not eviscerated, are fine
Other poultry: Particularly turkey in addition to Thanksgiving
time, goose, partridge, guinea fowl, squab and pheasant are
in demand.
. Followup: FCX will communicate chefs needs to pastured poultry
producers for this season, including discussion of year-round
supply.
ADDITIONAL DISCUSSION TOPICS:
" Information/communication around sustainable products.
While chefs differ on their approach to publicizing product/farms
on menus, it was agreed that more information needs to get to
the consumer about these types of products. The need for a distinct
appellation (like Label Rouge in France) or other short and
understandable way to alert consumers regarding products would
be really helpful. Consumers need this also to help them understand
why these products may cost more - who benefits, why it's worth
it. Additionally, consumers would begin to understand the differences
in grass-fed meats vs feedlot meats.
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